“Carnival is the embodiment of their sense of being and purpose and its celebration is an essential and profoundly self-affirming gesture of a people.”
Dr Geraldine Connor, renowned ethnomusicologist and artistic creator of Carnival Messiah
I have reported on here about the Notting Hill Carnival, a giddying display of sounds and sights which is one of the jewels in the crown of our calendar customs. However, the oldest Caribbean carnival is the lesser known Leeds West Indian Carnival as it calls itself and despite being considerably less well-known is every way as vibrant and awe inspiring.
There is certainly a carnival feeling that has taken over Leeds as even in the city centre one could see suitably attired individuals jumping aboard buses heading to Chapeltown where the carnival is based. The buses do not go far though as soon they get diverted as all roads to carnival central are closed and the passengers pour out to make their pilgrimage on foot. Soon the excitement begins to build as one comes across sound system after sound system nestled in shop fronts, check by jawl with food stalls. The sounds of reggae, soca and zouk mixing with the smells of rice and peas, saltfish and jerk. People laughing and singing clearly getting into the party mood – however, they would have a long time to wait these sound systems were towards the end of the parade.
Hot, Hot, Hot
August’s bank holiday monday was warming up and so was the crowd. I arrived at the carnival’s centre which was Potternewton park, here acts filled the stage and large crowds relaxed, danced and enjoyed the atmosphere. Soon dancers and portable sound systems began to assembly to process out of the park and people line the route. The costumes were impressive and show the artistry of the community and one is astounded at both the complexity and challenge created to those wearing them! The dancing was mesmeric and addictive and yes as of course soca classics Hot Hot Hot and Follow the Leader boomed out of the trucks leading their dancers on – it could not be carnival without these – as well as blending with modern sounds of Afrobeat and RnB as one sound system departed the sounds being replaced by another.
Follow the leader, leader, leader – who was first?
The first British Caribbean carnival event did appear in London in 1959 and although there was such a presence in the 1966 Notting Hill Street fair but this was combined with with people from all over Europe in their national costumes. Thus the first West Indian carnival parade which was organised by Black Caribbeans comprising of largely Caribbean diaspora with steel bands was actually the idea of Arthur France, from St Kitts-Nevis in 1967. Together with Trinidadian Frankie Davis and Jamaican Tony Lewis, University of Leeds students organised the first carnival at what is now Leeds City College which is claimed was a few years before the first Notting Hill one; although other sources claim that was first held in 1966 although it may well have been a street fair rather than a parade!
Carn for all!
Carnival is important for Britain’s Caribbean community as stated by Arthur France interviewed in 1994 stated:
“Carnival also reminds us of our roots, the struggle our ancestors had to bear, the oppression of our leaders, and great role models, but not in vain, for while we continue to celebrate carnival their achievements will remain with us forever”.
However, Guy Farrar, Tim Smith, Max Farrar in their 2017 Celebrate! 50 Years of Leeds West Indian Carnival state that at first there was opposition from the local Leeds black community as the vast majority thought it was degrading and a low class activity. This is certainly not the view now and fast forward over 50 years the carnival continues to celebrate Caribbean culture but now it is even more inclusive as our community has become more integrated and diverse and everyone is welcome to celebrate the music, dances and above all foods. Notting Hill despite its view of being a gold standard, many eschew it as a result of its crowds and reputation (although you would be hard pressed to find any event with a million of so people and alcohol which would be trouble free I would say!), Leeds is certainly a worthy alternative and of course if you plan it well you could attend both.