Custom survived: The Boar’s Head procession, London

“Before the last civil wars, in gentlemen’s houses at Christmas, the first diet that was brought to table was a boar’s head with a lemon in his mouth.”
John Aubrey, MS. dated 1678

The Boar’s head is a tradition associated with Christmas particularly in wealthy and high status families and there are a number of such processions recorded, some surviving and others demised. The Boar head was so pivotal to Christmas that it even gained its own carol sung when it was processed.

A bit of a boar

The tradition is associated with a parcel of land which was given to the company in 1343 to clean and dispose of any beast entrails by the then city’s Lord Mayor John Hammond a grocer after complaints were made by the monks at the Greyfriars as they had been discarding their “offal and ordure” into the streets.

Thus on 12th March 1343, the City granted them:

“…a parcel of land in Secollane adjoining the Flete, for the purposes of cleansing the entrails of beasts in the said water”

So they could:

“dispose of the offal in the Flete Ditch.”

To pay for this:

“…for which said butchers to repair and maintain a certain wharf, they and their successors, for ever, rendering yearly to the Mayor of London, at Christmas, a boar’s head.”

The cost to the Butchers according to early accounts stating

“Pd. For a boar to my Lord Mayor £1.4.0d.”

The land apparently has long gone and the practice no longer happens but the fee – a boars head continues to be asked for and delivered to the Lord Mayor apparently every year since although evidence of this is not that forth coming.

Not very boaring!

As I arrived the members of the company were just finishing off their apparent sausage and mash lunch but soon appeared outside resplendent in their furs and hats. As soon as the band arrived they began to organise themselves into a procession. This procession was lead by a bagpipe band with the company being lead by a beadle with his silver staff. In the middle was the boar’s head or rather a rather splendid red papermache head surrounded by plastic fruit carried on a wooden platter by four members of the company. Soon a band had arrived, this time a bagpipe band, the lead this curious procession to the Mansion house to deliver the papermache head to the Lord Mayor…rather pointless but certainly colourful and tuneful!

The procession stopped the traffic and passes a number of London landmarks such as the Museum of London and St Paul’s cathedral on its way. Once it had arrived the Mayor came out to inspect the Boar’s head although apparently a real boars head which is still given to the Mayor and I was informed by one of the company it had already been delivered and eaten…which seemed a bit strange as you would have thought they would have eaten after the procession – albeit a token procession it may be! Overall an extremely colourful event and one which certainly caught the eye and the mobile phones of the public as it went by.

Custom demised: The Feast of the Conception of Our Blessed Lady, the Chapel of the Savoy, London

John Strype, in his 1822 Ecclesiastical Memorials notes that on the 8th of December was the conception of our blessed Lady and that:

“ a goodly procession at the Savoy by the Spaniards, the priest carrying the Sacrament between his hands, and one deacon carrying a censer censing, and another the holy-water stock, and a number of friars and priests singing; and every man and woman, knights also and gentlemen, bearing green tapers burning, and eight trumpets blowing; and when they ceased, then began the sackbuts to play, and when they had done, there was one who carried two drums on his back, and one came after beating them. And so done, they went about the Savoy, now singing, and a while after playing again, and by-and-by came singing into the church, and after that they went to mass.”

Whilst many Catholic churches make the feast day their processions are not as grand as that once down in the 16th century and it no longer happens at the Savoy chapel.

Custom contrived: King Harold Day Waltham Abbey

Waltham Abbey despite being absorbed into the London metropolitan leviathan still retains its village feel in parts. Its a place that is suggestive of somewhere which has also retained some custom or tradition but also no. So the development of a custom focused on Waltham Abbey most famed resident is much welcomed. The organisation website recalls its foundation

“Elaine Fletcher and Tricia Gurnett, who both used to work in the area, decided they would like to do something to promote the rich history of this ancient town.   They soon found that Isabelle Perrichon, owner of the historic tearooms in the town and a French national, had the same idea, and had spoken to the Rector at the Abbey Church, who had asked Dave and Sheila Giles to represent the Church on the group.   The sixth person who joined was Garth Gregory, a local amateur dramatics enthusiast.   This little group put together the first event…

It was decided that King Harold Day would be on the nearest Saturday to 14 October each year, (the anniversary of Harold’s death), and the Abbey Church authorities and the Lee Valley Regional Park kindly allow the use of the Church, the Churchyard and the Abbey Gardens, which together provide a magnificent site for the festival. “

And so was established the first King Harold Day in 2004. That first year attracted 3000 people and in 2010 it won Best Event in the Essex Tourism Awards.
Now King Harold Day has become an established part of Waltham Abbey’s year.

Hasting to get there.

I arrived in good time to see a small group of costumed performers started to assemble at the towns museum to process to the churchyard when the last Saxon King of England’s grave is to be found. Watching various medieval folk wander through the busy Saturday market crowd headed by a horn blower, musicians and the rector was quite surreal and certainly turned a few heads although it was pretty evident that the locals knew why was going on.

Watch out for with that spear!

We soon arrived at the grave side where the Saxon soldiers raised their spears as we solemnly paid tribute to this long lost monarch. At the grave a pa system was ready for this al fresco service but clearly it was having some tething problems and was soon abandoned.

The commemoration started with a recital in Old English by a member of the English Companions fortunately given a modern translation. Some interesting details about Harold given by the Chairman of Waltham Abbey Historical Society. And the finally the Rev’d Tim Yeager asked us to remember Harold Godwinson as the Mayor of Waltham and others laid floral tributes until the whole grave was covered with floral tributes. It was a poignant moment.

Afterwards we we treated to the local Morris team dancing in the path by the church which might seem a little out of place but as I have mentioned before Morris is a bit of a standard for any newly developed custom

Overall, King Harold’ day is a welcome addition to the custom calendar

Custom demised: Hallowtide Master of the Revels at Middle Temple, London.

Thistleton-Dwyer in his 1911 British Popular Customs Present and Past records a long lost Hallowtide custom selected from the Whitelocke’s 1860 Memoirs of Bulstrode Whitelocke which was associated with the lawyers of Middle Temple, London which was current in the reign of. He notes that the lawyers considered All Hallow Tide as the beginning of Christmas and thus associated themselves for the festive objects connected with the season:

“In 1629 they chose Bulstrode Whitelocke as Master of the Revels, and used to meet every evening at St. Dunstan’s Tavern, in a large new room, called “The Oracle of Apollo,” each man bringing friends with him at his own pleasure. It was a kind of mock parliament, where various questions were discussed as in our modern debating societies, but these temperate proceedings were seasoned with mirthful doings, to which the name of revels was given and of which dancing appears to have been the chief.”

On All Hallows Day it is noted that:

“the Master as soon as the evening was come, entered the hall followed by sixteen revellers. They were proper, handsome young gentlemen, habited in rich suits, shoes and stockings, hats and great feathers. The master led them in his bar gown, with a white staff in his hand, the music playing before them. They began with the old masques; after which they danced the Brawls, and then the master took his seat, while the revellers flaunted through galliards, corantos, French and country dances, till it grew very late. As might be expected, the reputation of this dancing soon brought a store of other gentlemen and ladies, some of whom were of great quality, and when the ball was over the festive party adjourned to Sir Sydney Montague’s chamber, lent for the purpose to our young president. At length the court ladies and grandees were allured, to the contentment of his vanity it may have been, but entailing on him serious expense, and then there was great striving for places to see them on the part of the London citizens. To crown the ambition and vanity of all, a great German lord had a desire to witness the revels, then making such a sensation at court, and the Templars entertained him at great cost to themselves, receiving in exchange that which cost the great noble very little—his avowal that ‘Dere was no such nople gollege in Christendom as deirs”

All of which is now forgotten.

Custom revived: Costermonger’s Harvest festival

If you want to experience the real London at its most unique and colourful then the costermongers harvest festival should be top of your list. The costermongers, better known as Pearly King and Queens or Pearlies for short are not only a unique British but unique London tradition.

Pearl of London

It is believed that the very first Pearly King was Henry Croft, who in the mid- to late 1870s covered his entire suit in mother-of-pearl buttons which is believed to have happened to draw attention to himself as he raised money for charities. However, he was not the first costermonger to adorn his clothing with mother of pearl as it is recorded that before this costermongers would sew a line of buttons along their pocket and down their trouser legs. It was probably that Croft extended this by covering his entire suit possibly being influenced by the costumes of current music call singers such as Hyram Travers, who indeed performed as the ‘Pearly King’ which the Era of the 20th January 1883 described as the ‘handsomest and most costly suit of clothes ever seen’.

The King and Queen tradition appears to have developed as a way to keep the different traders from arguing and to represent them to the authorities in a sort of parody perhaps of London’s more formal livery companies. Unlike the livery companies each borough had a family which was pearly royalty and like royalty it was sort of hereditary although the titles were given back if a holder say left the area.

Being fruit and veg traders, strictly speaking apples, celebrating the harvest is an important point in the Pearlies calendar. As John Walters, of the London Pearly Kings and Queens Society, states it was society’s way of saying thank you to the Londoners and tourists that support their work. The first costermongers harvest festival started in the 1887 at St Magdalene’s church in Bermondsey until 1938 when it was bombed and the tradition moved to St Martin’s in the field where it continues until today. An account in Andrew Lawson’s 1977 Discover unexpected London states:

“The Pearly Kings and Queens of London get together once a year for one big jovial jamboree. Each monarch brings offerings of fruit, flowers and vegetables to the Costermongers Harvest Festival in St Martin’s in the Fields…the Vicar….is hononary pearly for the day. He wears a stole with pearl buttons. Five generations of one family. the Marriotts are here, all in pearly costume. The different clans greet each otherlike brothers and sisters of one family. Chelsea and Stoke embrace. Lambeth and Whitechapel get together and chat. East meets West; all London is united in London’s own particular style of cockney fellowship.”

Or at least it as for at some point a schism developed with two Pearly Harvest festivals run by two Pearly organisations in two different churches. The Pearly King of Peckham George Major is responsible for this move to St Mary-Le-Bow, being literally underneath the sound of Bow bells one could claim this to be a true cockney shrine. George states in Original cockney museum website:

“Some self made Pearlies stopped “who are not born into the pearly tradition”, from entering St Martins in the fields Trafalgar Square, stopping him and his genuine pearlies “the pearlies kings and queen guild” from entering. On the guild’s next meeting George was asked to sort it out the cockney way, so George arranged to have a meeting with the so called pearlies and the vicar, a meeting was set with the new vicar by the end of the meeting the vicar and the so called pearlies said to George get your own church, “now never challenge a cockney for he or she will take you on and prove you wrong” so George approached St Mary-le-Bow and arranged a meeting with the vicar of St. Mary-le-Bow, George also knew that St Mary does not open on Sunday, at the first meeting George used a soft start, explaining what the pearlies did in the late 40s early 50s when they raised a lot of money to have the bells renewed after the second world war, on the second meeting he tried the medium touch, the third meeting he used his market style and said to the vicar “do you agree with me that god works seven days a week” of course I do he replied so do I George said, and i only want one sunday a year, at that the vicar said for your cockney cheek you can have it for one sunday of the year .”

Roll out the barrel

The first rival Harvest festival was thus in 1999 and has very quickly eclipsed the older harvest festival because of an established associate event which provides an even more entertaining event. Sitting in the shadow of the Lord Mayor of London’s guildhall, naturally the Mayor is guest of honour but so are nearly every other London Mayor in a wash of red clocks which mixes well with the black and white of the Pearlies. The custom described as a must see event for Londoners and visitors alike; it certainly a vibrant one.

I arrived just before the formal start giving me time to soak in the array of marvellous mother of pearly in Pearly Kings, Queens, Princes and Princesses and had to listen in on that great British staple the Punch and Judy; long overdue a blog post perhaps. This was only the tip of an iceberg of the wave of Londonism mixed with Olde Englandism. First off we had the surveying of the troops by the Pearlies a sort of tongue in cheek nod to the royal of the less flamboyant monarchs who also live in London. This was followed by the bizarre site of all the Mayors doing a maypole dance joined with the pearlies. Just at that moment you might be thinking -where are the Morris dancers and true enough not to disappoint in they come – perhaps slightly incongruously but of course they are a staple elsewhere. After enthralling the crowd, many overseas visitors who did not fully understand what these Morris were and I indeed after explaining it was not sure I’d made it sound like it made sense, they danced off. Then, the Pearlies roused the London crowd by a traditional cockney sing song – My Old Man, Maybe its because I’m a Londoner and Roll out the Barrel – many sung along and a few real Londoners appeared to have tears welling in their eyes. The sing song went down well and it make we wonder why there was not a traditional cockney sing a long like the Yorkshire carols. What with the Lord Mayor, Maypole dancing,  a toastmaster, the Pearlies, some Chelsea Pensioners, Punch and Judy and Morris I did wonder whether you could get more of a pageant of Britishness if it tried only lacking a parade of bowler hatted businessmen and punks in black cabs to fulfil the brief of London cliches!

Soon as we were all uplifted, carts some being drawn by colourfully attired St Bernard dogs and some rather incongruously people dressed in Bavarian dress and Pearlies began to assemble and so did the photographers. This is nothing new, to be frank, it is hard to find a London custom which is not descended upon by photographers and I’d be hypocritical to comment otherwise, but it is interesting that Brian Shuel in his 1985 Guide to Traditional customs of Britain. Like the veritable piped piper, this colourful procession drew more and more onlookers as it snaked its way to Bow where another photograph opportunity arose as they assembled outside. Inside the church was suitably dressed and once the assembled entered with standing room only the church was filled with song.
The Pearlies are something unique to London so much they need UN cultural protection I would say; and the costermongers harvest festival is a must see event to see the amazing spectacle of their costumes whichever version you attend.

Custom contrived: Blessing the Bread at Lammas, Southwark

Ask any tourist to name a London cathedral; I am sure they will name St Pauls and Westminster, but Southwark probably not. This is not really surprising for whilst the later too regal in pomp and regale in their tourist reputation, Southwark still has that feel of a community cathedral, one whose principle role is to serve as thus it is not surprising that it has established a custom which firmly links it to the thriving market that sits at its feet.

The tradition is one established on an older one and incorporated into a central ritual of the church; communion. The older tradition is Lammas. Lammas,  dates from Saxon times, deriving from the old English ‘hlaf masse’ for Loaf mass. It falls on 1 August was established as the thanksgiving for the first products of the wheat harvest. Southwark’s established custom, first begun in 2014, builds upon this celebration of the wheat harvest whilst cementing its ties to a local bakery which lays in its shadow.

Give us our daily bread

The custom begins with with the delivery of the grain which will be used for the bread. The
Dean of Southwark not only blesses this but they will also held mill the wheat to make the flour that will become the Lammas Day bread,  a harvest sheaf, a small loaf and several Cathedral loaves for use in the Lammas-tide ceremony. As he does so he recants:

“Moses said to the people ‘When anyone presents a grain offering to the Lord, the offering shall be of choice flour.’ Leviticus 2.1.

Jesus said ‘The earth produces of itself, first the stalk, then the head, then the full grain in the head.’ Mark 4.28″

On the 1st of August or the day nearest too the bakery then prepare for the Dean’s visit to bless the final product. Details of the exact time of the Dean’s arrival were difficult to find so I hung around the area hoping to notice the colourful if rather short procession from the cathedral to the bakery. Sure enough lead by the cross bearer a small party of clergy arrived and entered the bakery where a the loaf awaited them on the table. The dean them blessed the bread and sprinkled holy water around the room stating:

“Let us give thanks for this grain of the new harvest to be milled to make choice flour which will be baked into the Lammas loaf. Lord of the harvest, bless the grain now in our hand bless the miller in their work bless the baker in their task bless the bread that will be baked bless the people to be fed bless the world you love so much and all in the name of Jesus our Lord.
All Amen”

And then asked the manager if there was anything else that needed blessing and he was soon guided around the bakery to bless the bakery, the bakers, all the staff, the millers, the farmers, flour and grain and as much machinery that he laid eyes upon.

 

Best thing since sliced bread

Everything suitably blessed, workers at the bakery took their newly blessed Lammas loaf and an array of other artistically designed breads and joining the Dean processed back to the cathedral where a Lammas day service was to be held. Dutifully the breads were placed upon the altar with the Lammas loaf central to the display with the Dean raising the bread up, in his presentation and saying:

“Brothers and sisters in Christ, the people of God in ancient times presented to the Lord an offering of first-fruits as a sign of their dependence upon God for their daily bread. On this Lammas Day, we bring a newly baked loaf from newly harvested wheat, baked by Bread Ahead in thanksgiving to God for his faithfulness. Jesus said, ‘I am the bread of life; those who come to me shall never be hungry and those who believe in me shall never thirst.’ John 6.35

The Lammas loaf is brought to the President, who says:

“Blessed are you, Lord God of all creation; you bring forth bread from the fields and give us the fruits of the earth in their seasons. Accept this loaf, which we bring before you, made from the harvest of your goodness. Let it be for us a sign of your fatherly care. Blessed are you, Lord our God, worthy of our thanksgiving and praise.”

The bread is then broken and later in the service given for the communion. Sadly many churches use the communion wafer as they communion offering and there is something more evocative at seeing a real loaf baked locally used in a way which had been done for centuries. Southwark’s Lammas day blessing is a small custom but one which clearly has long links to the past and firmly embedded within its community and as such hopefully will long continue.

 

Custom contrived: No Trouser Day on the London Underground

It was completely pouring down put that did not appear to put off the volunteers for what could be described as Britain’s weirdest custom as a large number of individuals had gathered at the appointed meeting point. A man with a loud hailer then called the people to order but as soon as he spoke another man with a loud hailer started saying ‘do not follow him he’s not the official person…if you go with him you won’t be insured.”

Insured? What was going to happen?

Despite the protestations, a sizeable group did depart with the rogue ‘no trouser’ person. The official organising tutting and disapprovingly saying ‘ I don’t know what he’s problem is…he came last year and decided to do it himself….he’s dangerous.”

Dangerous!? I did wonder why….was he the pied piper of pantlessness (as our US partners would say)?

Standing in the rain, the rules were explained to us and the need to wear underwear which covered the necessary bits, (although I did think this might be a bit late of a warning) and that we all had to enter the tube and in the first train remove one’s trousers and then from this point the aim was to travel to the Elizabeth line which had not been ridden trouser less before!

A load of pants

Beginning in 2002 in New York as No Pants Subway Ride by 2013 it had spread event to sixty cities. Organized by Improv Everywhere, it has slowly but surely becoming part of the rich tapestry, very British in its eccentricity and so beloved of the photographers and the press.

Down the steps, over the turnstiles and into our first carriage at which the organiser, keen to stress that we had to keep in sight of him….well we wouldn’t want to wander trouserless alone! He then said ‘right remove your trousers now’…easier said then done as it was short trip on the train. Then we were off, up and down escalators to the considerable dismay of the other users and smirks of many of the underground staff who probably had been prewarned! Although the juxtaposition between the top half, many were wearing thick coats and the lack of warmer clothing underneath made it even odder! Once we had entered the next train carriage we were encouraged to act normally such as reading a book, newspaper or searching on our phones and mingle with the troused..as the organiser said ‘there’s more impact if we split up’.

Pants to that!

I asked why people did it. One group of young city types – dressed in full smart suits and umbrellas, blamed one of their number saying ‘he always picks something to do unusual once a year for his birthday…this year this was it.’ Having said that they were not shy of the cameras, happy to pose in the usual watercooler moments for the photographers. A much older gentlemen said that it was a sort of response to a rather oppressive past relationship ‘she’d frown at this’ so that’s why I do it. Quite a few said this was a repeat appearance and that it had become some sort of strange addiction. There were also many oversea tourists who had seen it ‘on Facebook’ and one who just happened to be walking through China town asked what it was about and just went along with the flow! One dressed splendidly as Captain America (top only of course) clearly was keen on photo ops. However, the commonest response was ‘why not…it’s fun!’

Baring in all at Paddington

The group then arrived at Paddington where the well known other ‘bear’ (bare get it) statue was the source of some great poses from the press and a group photo facing and read ending was done for the patient press. And then a record was broken as the group entered the Elizabeth line. Although I laughed as a voice came over telling a photographer not to take photos ignoring the lack of clothing of the people. I soon left them and returned to normality.

On reflection the no trousers day on the tube is a rare sort of custom; completely pointless, unless raising a smile or shocking others is really the point, but one which brings together all ages, all backgrounds, all ethnicities, all genders and all sexualities.  A real camaraderie being developed. A welcome addition to the wacky subgenre of British customs in the ‘pointless fun’ category.

Custom contrived: The White Peace Poppy

Each year on the run up to the 11th November, there is a sea of red poppies but occasionally one comes across a white poppy and a fair few people look down on this flower but its association with Remembrance is almost as old as the more familiar red one. In 1926 a member of the No More War movement mooted the idea that pacifists should make and distribute their own poppy which would differ from the red one not only in colour but the centre would read ‘No More War. As such its plan was a remembrance of all victims of war, challenging militarism and a commitment to peace; whereas the red poppy would be remembering the military dead – which it remains symbolising. Despite the idea it was not developed and the Co-operative Women’s Guild were the first to sell white poppies in 1933 and then the Peace Pledge Union also begun distributing them in 1936 with wreaths being laid in 1937.

Interestingly white poppy sales rose in 2010 and in 2014 the 110,000 topped the previous sales of 80,000 in 1938. 

Up the Armistice centenary  there was a noticeable rise in the adoption of the white poppies as noted by the Coop News website

“According to PPU, the number of shops and other outlets known to be selling white poppies has risen by almost a third. Some Co-op Group supermarkets and Co-operative Bank branches also sell the poppies. Schools have made 70 orders for the white poppies schools pack, more then double the figure in 2017. The PPU received 34 orders for the new White Poppies for Churches pack as well.“

In the end, the Armistice resulted in a record 122,385 being sold.

“Of course we are very pleased to have distributed so many white poppies but it is the meaning behind the symbol that matters. If everyone who wears a white poppy takes action against militarism and war, and works for peace and active nonviolence, that would be a fitting memorial to the millions of civilians and combatants whose lives have been wasted in war.””

This is however not to say that the rise of the white poppy has not and continues to not have its controversy and whilst the Royal British Legion has no opinion on whether it should be red or white poppy worn, plenty of others appear to have spoken on their behalf – unofficially I’d add. As early as the 1930s some women lost their jobs for wearing them. Yet in Northern Ireland where the red poppy is associated with the British; those seeking unification can accept the white poppy with no issue. Local debates have arisen such as that between the then Bishop of Salisbury, John Baker in 1986 who when asked about the appropriateness said:

“let’s not be hurt if we see a white poppy…there is plenty of space for red and white to bloom side by side.” 

This however resulted in Robert Kay the Salisbury MP disagreeing and even bringing then British PM Thatcher into the debate who said during Prime minister’s question time that she had a “deep distaste” for the symbol. This created much attraction and doubtless more adherents to the white poppy cause despite several negative articles in The Daily Star. 

This debate appears not to be disappearing yet even as late as 2014, at the Aberystwyth War Memorial,  white poppy wreaths were binned and in 2018 a similar report perhaps from Somerset when:

“A white poppy wreath laid at the Bath War Memorial on Remembrance Sunday has been ‘pinched’ – for the third year in a row. The wreath was laid by Bath Quakers, who had called for it to be ‘respected’ ahead of the commemoration.However, the wreath has disappeared again – and in record time. The group said it was gone within 24 hours of the ceremony, having previously taken ‘a week or so’ to vanish.”

This resulted in an open letter:

“Dear Editor, On Sunday 11th November, Bath Quakers will again be taking part in the ceremony at the Bath War Memorial. With the respectful acknowledgement of the British Legion, we have laid a white poppy wreath for the last two years. Each time the wreath has been removed in the days after the event. We are hurt by this action and would like to take the opportunity to explain the origins and purpose of the white poppy. It was launched in 1933, a few years after the red poppy, by the Co-operative Women’s Guild. These were wives, daughters, sisters and cousins of soldiers killed and wounded, who were challenging society to prevent this kind of catastrophe happening again. They were seeking to find other ways to resolve conflict and an end to all war. Proceeds from the sale of white poppies fund peace education work. Our white poppy wreath is laid out of respect for all people killed, maimed, wounded and traumatised by war, civilians and military personnel from all sides involved in conflict. Many people wear both the white and red poppy. This year Bath Quakers will be laying two attached wreaths, one white and one red, to convey the complexity of this issue. It demonstrates our respect for the event and all participants, and our compassion for fallen military personnel and their families. At the same time it confirms our remembrance of all victims of war and our determination to work for the peaceful resolution of all conflicts. We hope that this year our wreath will be respected and remains where it is laid.”

Whilst St Mary’s Torquay make a point of stating on their social media:

“Come and see these incredible creations by our local Yarn Fairies – a poppy for each person remembered on the War Memorial and a ring of 24 white poppies for the 21 children and 3 teachers killed when St Mary’s was destroyed by enemy action on the 30th May 1943.  May they all rest in peace.”

 

Yet the conflict over white and red continues with a regular appearance of some aggrieved MPs or newspapers looking for copy, and the unfortunate link with the term ‘snowflake’ with equal amounts of those in the entertainment world supporting it. Michael Morpurgo, children’s author writing in a Radio times article: 

“Wearing the red poppy for me is not simply a ritual, not worn as a politically correct nod towards public expectation. It is in honour of them, in respect and in gratitude for all they did for us. But I wear a white poppy alongside my red one, because I know they fought and so many died for my peace, our peace. And I wear both side by side because I believe the nature of remembrance is changing, and will change, as the decades pass since those two world wars.”

I shall leave the last word to poet Professor Benjamin Zephaniah

“Rise above the wars The folly of endless fight, Let’s try making love, Let’s make our poppies white.”

Custom survived: London Harvest of the Sea Festival

“O Lord Jesus Christ, who after thy glorious resurrection didst prepare by  the waterside a breakfast of fish for disciples that had toiled the whole night  long; Come amongst these thy servants who toil beside our river day by day  to provide food for their fellow men, and bring thy blessing both on their  work and on their lives, O Lord our Saviour and help for ever. Amen.”

The Billingsgate Market Prayer – specially written by the late Very Rev. E. Milner-White

London has many traditions and customs as indeed this blog has detailed. One of the most visually arresting and unique is the Harvest of the Sea Harvest festival which is celebrated at St Marys at the Hill tucked away up the narrow Lovat Lane in the shadow of London’s famed Monument and a few yards from the Old Billingsgate Market.

I remember as a child once being brought early in the morning to see this vibrant fish market in action. The seafood smells, the sounds and sights of the white coated porters rushing around delivering their valuable fish stock was a heady and confusing. Little did I know that a few years later this venerable market, which had traded here since Viking times, would move forever more from its famous location to the Isle of Dogs and the noise and smells lost forever here….that is until the second Sunday in October when the smells and memories return to the church nearby. 

Plenty of fish in the sea!

The custom is famed for its seafood display which is not only visually impressive but fills the air with a fresh maritime aroma; a unique experience in a London church. Brian Shuel  in his 1985 a Guide to Traditional Customs of Britain states:

“Early in the morning a vanload of fish arrives to be laid out just inside the door of the church. In 1984 it took four men just two hours to create the astonishing display.”

He continues to state that one of the porters remarked:

“We counted fifty-four varieties of fish and shellfish…something like £500 worth of fish donated by the Billingsgate Fish Merchants.”

The display was similarly adorned with a large display of fish and seafood, with a separate stall of prawns, shrimps and cockles to the side. Nets were hung above and over a considerable monument which loomed above and crab and lobster pots – indeed two live crabs sat rather dazed upon the later awaiting their fate. 

Fishing around

I spied beneath the stall, one of the traditional bobbins. These were unique hats once worn by the porters to enable quick and efficient movement of their wares. Recalling my childhood visit I do remember the considerable skill involved and was in awe of those men rushing around carrying several boxes of fish balanced on their heads. The hats themselves are of wooden construction, covered with canvas and coated with bitumen to make them long lasting. Held together with studs and understandably having a brim to prevent any unnecessary fluids reaching the face, they are now rare pieces and in the modern Billingsgate not required.  The hat belonged to Mr Billy Hallet, who was one of two senior porters in white overalls who obliged for a photo. 

But one may ask why were they needed then? The original Billingsgate and the areas around was largely cobbled and so wheeled trolleys would be difficult to maneuver. I was informed by one of the oldest ex-Porters there, Reg Condon, of a tradition which enabled them to get up the more challenging hills locally. Upon reaching such a local, a cry of ‘hill up’ would be called by the porter. This then awoke the various rough sleepers who rested in the area who would then appear to help push the porter up the hill! They would then would be rewarded a shilling for their help. Apparently, this was a long standing tradition known by the homeless community who would make sure they were local to help and receive their monies.  

The service begun with a traditional blessing of a small section of the fish by the Bishop of Birmingham – an interesting choice perhaps being a clergyman from a landlocked location. This blessed firsh  was later returned to the whole display, with a remark that this was probably more desirable as it had been blessed.  The service had other unique maritime features such as the unique Billingsgate Prayer and prayers for Seafarers as below:

“For Seafarers  O eternal Lord God, who alone spreadest out the heavens, rulest the raging  of the sea: Be pleased to receive into thy protection all those who go down to  the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great waters. Preserve them  both in body and soul; prosper their labours with good success; in all time of  danger be their defence, and bring them to the haven where they would be;  through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen. 

O God our heavenly Father, we pray to thee for all seafarers and those who serve their needs; for keepers of lighthouses and the pilots of our ports; for all who man the lifeboats and guard our coasts; for the men of the fishing fleets and those who carry out the services of docks and harbours; for the guilds and societies which care for the wellbeing of fishermen and their families. Bless them according to their need, and shield them in all dangers and temptations; through Jesus Christ our Lord.  Amen.”

There was an uplifting rendition of the “For those in peril on the sea” even more poignant with the aroma of the sea drifting across the congregation. The service ended with a rousing rendition of the National Anthem with the new amendments and soon food and drink was being served to the departing congregation. 

A different kettle of fish?

How old the current custom is is difficult to ascertain. It certainly is not mentioned in any of the books on customs and traditions from the 1800s or early 20th century. I spoke with a Mr Reg Condon who had worked in Billingsgate in the 50s, 60s and 70s and was 85. He could recall that the first service at St Mary’s was in the 1960s and that he did recall it being held in St Magnus. This would be in line with the reference in the Times of the 3rd October 1922 which describes a similar event. It seems likely that the custom moved perhaps after the second world war to its current location. Although St Magnus state that the service moved in 1923 to St Dunstan in the East and then to St Mary at Hill, Alternatively, Brian Shuel  in his 1985 a Guide to Traditional Customs of Britain states:

“This unique Harvest Thanksgiving began in the 1930s.. The Church Army  approached the market and suggested it as a charitable exercise. Sam Shepherd, a former Superintendent of the market told me they were delighted to agree. The occasion continues on the same basis; the Church Army still claims the fish and distributes to the needy.”

He adds surely with a tongue in cheek:

“I was grateful to accept a pair of dover sole myself, from the artistic fishmongers, who recognised my own unfortunate circumstances.”

Today a considerable queue forms and many happy congregations left with some quality seafood ready for that special occasion and despite the concerns over overfishing the display is as remarkable as ever. 

Custom contrived: October Plenty

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

“October Plenty is such a special way to celebrate the Autumn Harvest and show off the beautiful colours of the season’s fruit & veg piled high on our traders’ stalls. We are really looking forward to welcoming the event back to the Market this year and sharing festivities, stories and dancing for a lovely family event. The Corn Queene and Berry Man are always particular favourites of ours and we are excited to host visitors as well as the many different characters in the procession!”

Kate Howell, Director of Communications and Engagement at Borough Market

The autumn period is packed with curious customs and celebrations associated with the changing seasons; from harvest festivals to Hallowe’en, from Diwali to Bonfire Night. In recent years, a celebration of that quintessential season fruit; the apple has attracted its day. Attempting to join many ideas together in one place; as a sort of smorgasbord of autumn, is the Lion’s Part’s October Plenty, which is undertaken in London’s Southwark. Indeed, as the organiser’s website records:

“Over 20 years ago, fired with enthusiasm for amazing autumn festivies that people celebrated world wide and influenced by the organisation Common Ground, whose creation of Apple Day has inspired so many, I gathered with local friends and members of the Lions part and we launched October Plenty. At the heart of it was the iconic Corn Queene. Since then, in collaboration with Roots and Shoots, Lambeth, through David Perkins and Sarah Wilson, she has become an annual wonder.”

A bit corny!

The most remarkable feature is the Corn Queene whose appearance at the front of the Globe marks the beginning and is central to the procession. The website for the event records how this Corn Queene has been made since 2004 and that:

“she has emerged each year at Roots and Shoots in Lambeth and, like another mythical old bird, she takes form, rises, briefly reigns, before dissipating in a great shout…..Her demeanour can seem bemused, condescending, even dismissive, of the antics of much smaller humans.”

What is interesting about this Corn Queene is that although clearly a modern invention it has the feel of something more ancient and authenticate. She plays a central role in the October Plenty festival and her annual reincarnation is a central point and theme to this custom. Each year although she follows a similar design, she is also different; she metamorphosizes and since 2003 she parades on an old market barrow. She is described as:

“The Queene’s facial features are very colourful, often with an interesting complexion and skin texture. Her nose generally resembles a small gourd (regrettably warty at times) and she almost always has decidedly hot lips. Lashes can be long, perhaps enhanced with extensions (wire, right). Beauty spots have appeared now and then and she has favoured ear decorations on a number of occasions (small gourds or radish, maybe).”

Originally it was made by the actors on the day then as the event became more successful and merged with the markets own Apple Day since 2012 it had allowed the Queene to take place under cover in a then newly refurbished area of the Market; taking around 3 or 4 days to build her. 

The procession has also changed and since 2019, the Queene now emerges from Lambeth, passes the Tibetan Peace Garden/Imperial War Museum via Lambeth Walk.

On my visit this Corn Queene was indeed a very odd, comical but still rather eerie ‘creature’ looming over the crowd that had assembled for the start of the procession. Joining her was the equally odd Berry Man..now we had seen him before at the beginning of the year as the Green man of course and this autumnal version adorned with shades of brown and orange and suitably seasonal fruits and berries was perhaps even more impressive. It certainly turned a few heads as he, the Corn Queene and the Mayor headed a procession of players down the streets on the southbank and into the market. 

Here one could sample that wonderful autumnal produce, and the assembled crowd certainly took advantage of that opportunity as the market was bustling. Soon as a large enough audience had developed the actors presented them with Tudor dancing and a Georgian play which was the correct mix of bawdy and bizarre. Once the play had been presented the procession reformed and made its way to the George Inn, a delightful galleried inn which has survived considerable progress around. Here there was conker competitions, apple bobbing, a wishing tree….and that traditional staple of a countryside custom – Morris dancers.

October Plenty is certainly a fun and colourful custom; completely made up with a feel of authenticity, a modern take on the Harvest home perhaps, and one might add playing a vital role in our modern life. Especially in the city. For in our modern city lives it’s important to understand the countryside and how we are very dependent on it. October Plenty provides a historical nod to how this was done in the past in a very modern spin. When seasonality often lost in the 21st century, when everything is available irrespective of the time of year, October plenty allows the city folk to reconnect in a fun way, with the season and the wonderful colours and bounty that autumn provides.